Off to Narlai: experiencing rural life

Tuesday 25^th September: Amet Haveli Hotel, Udaipur to the Rawla Narlai, Narlai

Our bathroom window overlooked the pool and these
beautiful mosaic friezes and carved windows

Today, we left Udaipur and all its beautiful lakes and headed toward Narlai. The changed and changing countryside showed the varying farming practices including crops of millet, sorghum, corn and cotton depending on the arable nature of the land. Jessica described how acacia trees were being planted in protective wire frames to help with re-vegetation.

We climbed into the hills past many villages and towns and had a rest / toilet stop at a café accessed across a pedestrian bridge. The owner of the café demonstrated the ancient water wheel that used a bucket and chain system and was driven by bullock power to draw water up from the river below to irrigate the crops. This is the same river that we were to see at the Jain temple.

The Trailokyadeepak, Rankanpur Jain Shwetamber Temple has distinctly different architecture and beliefs. It was built in the 14^thC and dedicated to the 1^st Tirthankar Shri Adinathji. According to the brochure, it is an example of exquisite harmony of religion and art. The art and architecture of this temple represents the great tenets of Jain religion:

• Ahimsa (non-violence)
• Satya (truth)
• Achaurya (non-stealing)
• Brahmacharya (celibacy / chastity)
•  Aparigraha (non-attachment / non-possession)

On entering the temple these 'priests' in orange
 shawls approach you and offer to give you a blessing
( for a small price). They aren't Jain priests apparently.

One of the 24 domes

This temple is based on 1,444 beautifully carved pillars of Sevali and Sonarna stone; each pillar is different. The steps, the Shringar Chowkis, the Mandaps and the entrances are identical on all four sides creating a unique ambience of symmetry. The pillars are arranged so that none of them obstruct the view of the Tirthankar’s idol. Note: Dear Reader, please do not assume that I took such copious notes as to be able to provide the above description; it is all from the brochure.

After shedding our shoes, and managing the steep steps to enter the Temple, we were blessed by one of the acolytes – this seemed to be to encourage a tip as much as anything else, despite the ‘no tips to staff’ note in the brochure.

Father and son after making an offering to one of the gods

We then wandered the Temple, listening to the guided tour of the 17 numbered points of interest.

The Temple is set in an isolated location in the mountains
which adds to its serenity

The mother of one of the Gods who sat astride an elephant caught my eye. Covered in flowers and bedecked in silver she seemed very calm and content

Back on the bus, we headed to our hotel at Rawla Narlai, where we were served an enormous lunch with many ‘westernised’ dishes together with the regular Indian foods to which we have become accustomed and are enjoying. Despite the amount devoured in the main course, when we were offered chocolate brownie for dessert, it had to be tried as it was warm from the oven. This was voted the best brownie so far. 

Some time in and at the pool followed for some or just rest time in our unique and sumptuous rooms, all with views to the massive granite rock which dominates Narlai. While we were at the pool, Zoe arrived for a day / night with us; it was great to see her again.

Late in the afternoon, we assembled in the courtyard; seated in a semi-circle, we were offered wine and then each of us was fitted with a large Rajasthani headscarf that we somehow managed to sort to suit our colours.  The hotel staff all wear red turbans and one showed how the turbans are wrapped from 9, 10 or 12 metres of material to form a turban for some of the male guests.

Sipping wine and wearing our colourful silk head scarves, we watched a nightly Jain ceremony in the small courtyard temple.

The view from our seats: magical. The music he produced was meditative and soothing and really added to the atmosphere. We watched as the full moon rose above us.

You can see the water level in the stepwell and almost see the wooden wheel at the far end which uses horsepower to pump water from the stepwell

Dressed in our bright Rajasthani scarves we
awaited the first course of our many
course dinner

Transport to the stepwell dinner was interesting. Zoe and others rode on carts, while we were taken by Jeeps through the gathering night to the step well. 

Jenny thought the bullock drays weren't the safest choice

Out of the bush a primitive (and quite frightening) man appeared: not sure what that was about! 

We're sitting at tables with the bright lights on them in the background:
Just too beautiful and a night none of us will forget

An amazing sight met us; lounge seats in a semi-circle with tables in front with lanterns, candles on all levels of the step well, with the water wheel at the far end and a seated musician on a platform in the tiers of candle-light. 

Dessert,:caramelised pineapple fritters
and a green pudding made from gourds
 (yes gourds!)
 and coconut : fabulous

This evening is one to be remembered – the setting, the ambience, the food and the ride to and from the step well. Words to describe this fantastic evening and experience are not enough so I will finish here and allow the many photographs to tell the story.

Your impressed and overwhelmed correspondent

 Thelma